Editor Takeover: Sarah Harris |
Hello, and welcome to British Vogue's new editor-led newsletter. To kick things off, global network lead and European deputy editor Sarah Harris shares her notes from the autumn/winter 2023 shows in London – the fashion, the folk music, the fluffy chicks. Look out for more personal newsletters from British Vogue's editors in your inbox in the weeks to come. |
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"London Fashion Week, February: a jam-packed schedule interrupted by the not so small matters of the BAFTAs and British Vogue's annual Fashion and Film party with Tiffany & Co. This year's event, held at Annabel's and co-hosted by Edward Enninful, Anya Taylor-Joy and Jourdan Dunn, welcomed guests including Jamie Foxx, Florence Pugh, Naomi Campbell, Baz Luhrmann and Eddie Redmayne. Truffle pizza came out around 1am and kept party-goers going into the small hours. Needless to say, it was not an early night. (Post-party tip: listen to soul-soothing Lankum, the Irish folk music group who serenaded guests at Simone Rocha's gorgeous show. They will bring you back down to earth.) "The hottest ticket of the week was, of course, Daniel Lee's debut at Burberry. Admittedly, we weren't thrilled to trek all the way out to Kennington, but once inside his fog-fuelled tent were happy to find cosy, Burberry-blanketed seating on which to enjoy the hot toddies being served. The great outdoors was Lee's theme, and was perfectly encapsulated in his long khaki raincoats. |
"Could farmyard chic actually be a thing? It's stacking up to be. Let's see, ducks were a recurring motif at Burberry; we witnessed digital prints of piglets and fluffy yellow chicks at Christopher Kane, set against a purring cat soundtrack while we sat on plastic-wrapped hay bales; and hay also popped up stuffed into a series of Simone Rocha's romantic tulle dresses to create bouncy volume. "Michael Stewart's Standing Ground label, which shows as part of the non-profit Fashion East line-up, is my absolute favourite newcomer. Stewart is a huge talent who can sculpt a dress like no other. His long, slim, relatively simple silhouettes belie a catalogue of clever couture tricks and techniques. They're hand-moulded, sometimes conceal hip-pads, and are engineered with invisible corsetry. Who knew you needed a bubblegum-pink velvet gown in your life? Well, you do now. |
"In terms of other LFW wants, okay, here goes: something from Nensi Dojaka – I'm not entirely sure what yet, but every one of those sheer spaghetti-strapped delicate dresses is a gravity-defying masterpiece (so too, that blue-jean-chiffon-trouser hybrid, which in theory sounds like a terrible idea but just. So. Good). Also, kudos to Dojaka for the standout casting, which was the best of LFW thanks to Piergiorgio Del Moro. From Vittoria, Jill, Adut and Imaan to Mariacarla Boscono and Caroline Trentini. It was a treat to watch. "Elsewhere, something with a bustle is proving irresistible. I'll take one of Christopher Kane's vinyl skirts front-loaded with ruffles, which as he proved, need nothing more than a cashmere sweater. Or JW Anderson's slouchy silk trouser and blouse set in black or ivory, I don't mind which. I's the day-to-night solution for probably every woman, everywhere. And 100 per cent a pair of those black, stretchy, high waisted kick flare trousers at Emilia Wickstead, which she boasts could be the trouser shape of the season. I actually might not argue." |
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